Automatic machine for sewing pocket pieces and the like to garments

ABSTRACT

A machine for automatically sewing a pocket piece to a garment wherein the pocket is loaded onto a clamp in which the pocket shape is set and a sewing margin established. The clamp is connected to a fixture driven on an X-Y table and activated by a linkage assembly whose movement follows that of conjugate cams. The two cams are identical and are mounted on a common shaft in displaced configuration upon a line of symmetry to form a coordinate drive system which drives the clamp to prescribe a predetermined pattern. An adjustable bracket connects the fixture to the linkage assembly. The sewing machine and the conjugate cams are synchronously driven from a variable speed motor by timing belts. A pair of holding plates are used in the clamp to prevent the pocket edges from becoming unfolded while the pocket is in the clamp. The holding plates include an inner plate and an outer plate, interconnected to each other by a spring cartridge. Once the folding operation is completed, the clamp is moved to the sewing position for the start of the sewing cycle wherein the folded pocket will be sewn to a shirt front which has been placed beneath the pocket clamp before the pocket piece was inserted into the clamp.

United States Patent 1 Futter 51 Jan.30, 1973 [54] AUTOMATIC MACHINE FOR SEWING POCKET PIECES AND THE LIKE TO GARMENTS [75] Inventor: Menachem Futter, Union, NJ.

[73] Assignee: The Singer Company, New York,

[22] Filed: June 23,1971

[21] Appl. No.: 155,927

[52] U.S.Cl ..112/l2l.l5 [51] Int. Cl. ..D05b 21/00 [58] Field of Search...l 12/2, 121.11, 121.12, 121.15,

Primary Examiner-James R. Boler Attorney-Marshall J. Breen et a1.

[57] ABSTRACT A machine for automatically sewing a pocket piece to a garment wherein the pocket is loaded onto a clamp in which the pocket shape is set and a sewing margin established. The clamp is connected to a fixture driven on an X-Y table and activated by a linkage assembly whose movement follows that of conjugate cams. The two cams are identical and are mounted on a common shaft in displaced configuration upon a line of symmetry to form a coordinate drive system which drives the clamp to prescribe a predetermined pattern. An adjustable bracket connects the fixture to the linkage assembly. The sewing machine and the conjugate cams are synchronously driven from a variable speed motor by timing belts. A pair of holding plates are used in the clamp to prevent the pocket edges from becoming unfolded while the pocket is in the clamp. The holding plates include an inner plate and an outer plate, interconnected to each other by a spring cartridge. Once the folding operation is completed, the clamp is moved to the sewing position for the start of the sewing cycle wherein the folded pocket will be sewn to a shirt front which has been placed beneath the pocket clamp before the pocket piece was inserted into the clamp.

13 Claims, 29 Drawing Figures PATENTEDJAI 30 I975 SHEET 2 0F 5 INVENTOR. Menachem Fufler ATTORNEY PATENTEUmwo ms 3,713,406.

sum 5 or 5 Fig. 23

. INVENTOR. 280 Menochem Fufler YIIIJI'II BY 48 M4 1 WITNESS! @4412 wvmfl R925 5 ATTORNEY AUTOMATIC MACHINE FOR SEWING POCKET PIECES AND THE LIKE TO GARMENTS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Heretofore, skilled operators were required to sew pockets onto garments. Attempts at automating this process have been numerous but the mechanisms have always had certain shortcomings. For example, they might require auxiliary equipment such as pressers or creasers. If the pocket were to be formed in a clamp having a shaping member, removal or collapse of the shaping member from the pocket piece might result in disturbing the desired pocket shape or the established sewing margin,,or both.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide improved automatic machine for sewing pocket pieces to garments which avoids the prior art disadvantages; which is cam actuated; which is simple, economical and reliable; which uses conjugate cams mounted upon a line of symmetry; which permits the pocket piece to be set in a clamp capable of establishing a sewing margin therein; which includes a clamp having an inner plate and an outer plate to hold the pocket piece securely at all times during the folding and sewing operations; which uses a pattern drive synchronized with the sewing machine to place a stitch in each corner of the pocket; and, which uses an adjustable bracket to position the folding clamp exactly relative the sewing head.

Other objects and advantages will be apparent from the following description of the invention and the novel features will be particularly pointed out hereinafter in the claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS This invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a top plan view, partly in section, of an automatic machine embodying the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a front elevational view, partly in section, of the automatic machine embodying the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a top plan view of the automatic machine showing the conjugate cams, actuating links and the fixture including the X-Y table and the work clamp assembly;

FIG. 4 is a top plan view of the adjustable bracket of the X-Y table to which the actuating links connect;

FIG. 5 is a view taken along line 5-5 of FIG. 4;

FIG. 6 is a view taken along line 66 of FIG. 5;

FIG. 7 is a front elevational view in section of the bracket of FIG. 5 showing one of the adjustment screws in two positions; one solid line and one phantom line;

FIG. 8 is a view taken along line 8-8 of FIG. 7;

FIGS. 9 through 17 are schematic representations of the steps of operation showing the work clamp assembly in sectional view as follows: FIG. 9 shows the work clamp assembly in raised position with the clamp open and the folding blades above the horizontally disposed pocket piece; FIG. 10 shows the edges of the pocket piece bent downwardly by the lowered folding blades with the remainder of the clamp assembly lowered but still off the work surface; FIG. 11 shows the folding blades actuated to fold the pocket piece while the work clamp assembly remains above the work surface to permit optional alignment of any pattern, with the windows for alignment being shown only in this figure; FIG. 11a indicates a stripped pattern of the pocket piece and garment in misalignment; and FIG. llb shows the garment slightly moved to align the pattern to permit subsequent positioning of the fixture upon the garment with the pattern matched; FIG. 12 shows the work clamp assembly on the work surface and the outer holding plate engaging the folding pocket piece; FIG. 13 shows the work clamp assembly with the main folding plate withdrawn; FIG. 14 shows the work clamp assembly with the inner holding plate holding the pocket piece in folded position upon the garment and the work supporting surface; FIG. 15 shows the folding blades retracted; FIG. 16 shows the outer holding plate clamping the pocket piece in folded position; FIG. 11 shows the main frame raised off of the work surface and the work clamp assembly in position for the sewing operation;

FIG. 18 is a front elevational view, partly broken away, showing the sewing machine and the garment feeder;

FIG. 19 is an enlarged elevational view, partly in section, of the pressure arm of the work clamp assembly showing the spring cartridge including the holding plate assembly in unbiased position and the inner plunger raised;

FIG. 20 is a sectional view, partly broken away, of the spring cartridge shown in FIG. 19 with the inner plunger in contact with the inner holding plate;

FIG. 21 is a sectional view, partly broken away, of the spring cartridge of FIG. 19 with the inner plunger biasing the inner holding plate downwardly corresponding to the position shown in FIG. 14;

FIG. 22 is a sectional view, partly broken away, of the spring cartridge of FIG. 19 with the outer sleeve plunger biasing the outer holding plate downwardly corresponding to the position shown in FIG. 16;

FIG. 23 is a schematic representation of the pattern traced by the cam actuated linkage at the adjustable bracket and the stitching line of the folding clamp assembly, and showing the line of symmetry;

FIG. 24 is an enlarged top plan view of the conjugate cams being made from a duplicate cut and showing the line of symmetry, the axis of rotation and the angle at which the follower is set to place the linkage at the line of symmetry;

FIG. 25 is a view taken along line 2525 of FIG. 24 showing the duplicate cams;

FIG. 26 shows the duplicate cams separated with one turned over and the respective lines of symmetry;

FIG. 27 shows the duplicate conjugate cams reassembled in position for connection to the cam drive as shown in FIG. 23 with the respective line of symmetry of each cam in superposition to one another.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In the illustrated embodiment of the invention the novel automatic machine, designated generally as 30, is shown in FIGS. 1, 2, 3 and 18. The device 30 is mounted on a support frame 32, the underside of which carries a drive mechanism (not shown) which drives a main jack shaft 34 shown in FIG. 1. A sewing machine assembly 36 is selectively driven through a clutch 38 and belt 40 connected to the main jack shaft 34. On the side of the support frame opposite the sewing machine assembly 36, is a cam assembly 42 having a drive shaft 44 driven from the main jack shaft 34 through a suitable belt and gear arrangement (not shown). A pair of conjugate pattern cams 45 having an upper cam 46 and a lower cam 48, and a speed control cam 50 are detachably fixed respectively in descending order to the shaft 44.

A linkage assembly 51 illustrated in FIGS. 1, 3 and 23, includes two levers 52 and 54 respectively connected to pivot about a common point 56. The end of levers 52 and 54 remote from the point 56 is pivotally connected to links 58 and 60 respectively, which links have the opposite ends thereof joined to pivot on a common stud 62, illustrated best in FIG. 23. Levers 52 and 54 have cam followers or rollers 64 and 66 respectively connected thereto intermediate the pivot point 56 and the links 58 and 60. Each of the levers 52 and 54 has a tail end 68 to which is connected an air cylinder 70 for biasing the followers 64 and 66 into continuous engagement with the respective cams 46 and 48 to cooperate in tracing the pattern of the conjugate cams 45 as transcribed by the axial line of the stud 62, as explained more fully hereinafter. The links 58 and 60 may be supported adjacent the pivotal connection with the levers 52 and 54 by suitable support bars 72 shown in FIGS. 1 and 3 by means of depending rol lers (not shown).

The linkage assembly 51 drives a work clamp assembly 74 which is connected to a driven fixture 76 movable in the X-Y plane as illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 3. An adjustable bracket 78 connects the stud 62 to a top table 80 of the fixture 76 which is free to move in the Y direction represented by the double-headed arrow in FIG. 3 and is in turn mounted on a bottom table 82 which is free to move in the X direction represented by the double-headed arrow in FIG. 3; each of the tables 80 and 82 being slidably mounted on parallel rods in the respective planes of motion. The top table 80 carries a logic shaft assembly 84 shown in FIG. 1 which includes a logic shaft 86 to which is affixed a plurality of cams 88 associated with a plurality of switches 90 and mechanical actuators 91, for operating the work clamp assembly in a timed sequence, as explained more fully hereinafter.

The sewing machine assembly 36 as illustrated in FIG. 18, includes a needle positioner 92 and an underbed trimmer 94. The underbed trimmer 94 is of the type shown in U.S. Pat. No. 2,938,477, which is modified as necessary to perform the operative functions of the present assembly.

The term sewing margin as used herein shall mean the distance from the stitch line to the outer edge of the folded pocket piece 160.

Operator actuated controls, designated generally 96, illustrated in FIGS. 1, 2 and 3, are mounted atop the frame 32 as at 96 a-k, to control such functions as stop, start, repair, matchmode, slow, bobbin change, hold, etc. The control 96 a-k are connected to effect control of suitable electric or pneumatic control circuits, which circuits will act, separately or in combination, to operate the machine as more fully set forth hereinafter.

The work clamp assembly 74 as shown in FIGS. 1 and 3, includes a clamp frame 98, a pressure arm 100, a retractable main folding plate 102, a holding plate assembly 104, a pair of side folding blades 106 and a front folding blade 108, each being operated in timed sequence responsive to the logic shaft assembly 84. The motion of the clamp frame 98 is controlled by a pair of spaced cams l of the logic cams 88 by the mechanical motion of actuator arms 109, which cause the clamp frame 98 to pivot about shaft of the assembly 74. The pressure arm 100 pivots about a shaft 112 responsive a crank means ll4.being actuated by a cam m of the logic cams 88. The folding blades 106 and 108 are slide actuated into an advanced position or a retracted position, responsive to a pair of rod and follower means 116 actuated by a pair of cams n of the logic cams 88. The main folding plate 102 is advanced or retracted through a slide link 118, by an air cylinder 120 the operation of which is controlled by cam 0, the segments of which will engage one of two switches p and q, of the logic switches 90 to signal the air cylinder to assume an extended or retracted position to effect a corresponding sliding motion of the main folding plate 102. Cam r controls three switches, s, t and u of the logic switches 90 to control selectively the matchmode position and the open clamp position and the end of folding clamp position.

The fixed axes at 44 and 56 having a hypothetical line passing therethrough will define a line of symmetry 122. At the start of the cycle, the axis of the stud 62 will intercept the line of symmetry 122. For asymmetrical pattern, from a known starting point, at every 180 of rotation of the conjugate cams 45, the axis of stud 62 will intercept the line of symmetry 122 at point 124 which corresponds to the start point and midpoint of the pattern being traced. The pattern 126 being traced in the FIG. 23 representation extends Ieftwardly in the direction of the conjugate earns 45, while the pattern 128 being traced at the stitch line corresponding to the motion transcribed by the work clamp assembly 74, will extend rightwardly in a direction away from the conjugate cams 45, but in all other respects, will be identical.

The bracket 78 is fixedly connected to the top table 80, as illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 4 by means of a pair of bolts 130 extending through a flange 132 to be threadedly received in tapped holes within said table. The opposite end of the bracket 78 has a boss 134 formed at its outermost end, and a boss 136 substantially 90 therefrom. Each of the bosses 134 and 136 has a tapped hole 138 extending therethrough to receive a threaded bolt 140 which is locked in position by a nut 142. Inwardly of the boss 136 and at approximately a 45 angle therefrom, is an abutment boss 144. The stud 62 pivotally carries links 58 and 60 and has the top affixed to a mounting disc 146. The disc 146 has four tapped holes 147 which are aligned with four enlarged holes 148 shown in FIG. 5. Four screws 150, the heads of which seat upon enlarged washers 152, pass through the holes 148 to be threadedly received in the tapped holes 147. Tightening of the screws 150 will lock the disc 146 and the connected stud 62 to the bracket 78 in fixed position.

The pattern 128 is a function of the linkage assembly 51 and the cam assembly 42. The outer contour of the pocket shape is a function of the main folding plate 102. The X-Y adjustment of the bracket 78 is used to bring the pattern 128 generated by the linkage assembly 51 and the cam assembly 42 into position with the pocket shape so that the sewing margin produced at the pocket piece 160 will be of equal distance from the outer edge thereof to the stitch line all around said pocket piece 160. Another test is that the work clamp assembly 74 traces a pattern 128 at the stitch line which is coincident to the axis of the sewing machine needle 180. Proper adjustment of the work clamp assembly 74 at bracket 78 will cause the axis of the stud 62, at the start and midpoint of the cycle, to intercept the line of symmetry 122 at which point the sewing margin all around the pocket piece 160 will be equal, as illustrated in FIG. 23. Because of manufacturing tolerances, it is convenient to provide for adjustment at the bracket 78 to insure the necessary interception of the axis of stud 62 with the line of symmetry 122. This is obtained as shown in FIG. 6 by placing a 45 hole 154 into which is disposed a spring 156 and a pin 158 which is biased against the abutment boss 144. The hole 156 can be placed diagonally across the adjustment bolts 140 in either direction. Upon the loosening of the screws 150, the disc 146 and subsequently the stud 62 may be adjusted by turning the bolts 140 in either direction. This is shown in FIGS. 7 and 8 wherein the phantom representation of the bolt in boss 136 shows the start position and the full line representation shows the final adjusted position. In this example, the disc was moved in the Y direction from the left-hand side ofthe enlarged hole to a position against the right-hand side thereof. The enlarged holes 148 are of sufficient size to accommodate the normally expected manufacturing tolerances built into such equipment, and permits the exact adjustment of the system so that the critical points such as the axis of the stud 62 and work clamp assembly 74 may be positioned exactly corresponding to the line of symmetry 122, and the axis of the sewing needle, respectively. Also, a similar adjustment can be made in the X direction.

Turning now to FIGS. 9-17, the sequence of operation of the work clamp assembly will now be described; it being understood that the positioning of the various components and operations thereof, is controlled by the logic shaft assembly 84. At the start of this cycle, the main folding plate 102 is positioned above the work surface and the operator will manually load a pocket piece 160 thereon. The main folding plate 102 is positioned above a work support surface 162 upon which has been placed a garment 164 to which the pocket piece 160 will be subsequently sewn. The main folding place 102 is in the advanced position with the holding plate assembly 104 disposed in superposition thereto, horizontally adjacent the clamp frame 98. The clamp frame 98 as shown in FIGS. 1 and 3 is U-shaped and carries the side folding blades 106 in legs thereof adjacent the sides of the holding plate assembly 104, and the front folding blade 108 adjacent the front of said holding plate assembly 104. Only the side folding blades 106 will be shown in FIGS. 9-17, it being understood that'the front folding blade 108 will operate substantially simultaneously therewith to form a front fold slightly advanced from the side folds when the folding blades 106 and 108 are actuated to the advanced position. In FIG. 9, the side folding blades 106 are shown in retracted position. Once the pocket piece 160 and the garment 164 are placed in and under respectively the work clamp assembly 74, the operation 5 is initiated by the operator actuating a suitable start button to activate the automatic machine 30.

The edges of the pocket piece 160 which extended horizontally will be bent downwardly approximately at right angles to the work support surface 162 by the lowering of the clamp frame 98 which brings them into contact with the side folding blades 106. The pressure arm 100 to which the holding plate assembly 104 is connected is also lowered with the clamp frame 98 from an initial angle with the work surface 162 of l5 as illustrated in FIG. 9 to an angle of 5 as illustrated in FIG. 10. The holding plate assembly 104 includes a spring cartridge 166 affixed to the pressure arm 100 to selectively activate an outer holding plate 168 and an inner holding plate 170 responsive to the position of the pressure arm 100 as explained more fully hereinafter.

The front folding blade 108 shown in FIGS. 1 and 3, followed by the side folding blades 106 shown in FIGS. 9-17 are actuated to the advanced position to fold the edges of the pocket piece 160 beneath the main folding plate 102. An optional feature of permitting a matching mode of a pattern pocket piece 160 and garment 164 is provided as shown in the circled area of FIG. 11 and detailed immediately below in FIGS. 11a and 11b. The pocket piece 160 and work clamp assembly 74 remain above the work surface 162 and the garment 164. Aligned holes or windows 172 are formed in the holding plates 168 and 170 to permit visual inspection of the patterned pocket piece 160 which is also exposed outwardly of the outer holding plate 168 because the pocket piece is folded about the main folding plate 102 which plate 102 if of greater width than that of the outer holding plate 168. Holes or windows 174 are also formed in the folding blades 106 and 108. The operator will make a visual inspection to determine the lie of the garment 164 with respect to the pocket piece 160 as represented in FIG. 11a. If the pocket piece 160 and the garment 164 are misaligned, the operator will move the garment 164 to a matched and aligned position represented by FIG. 11b. Once this is done, the work clamp assembly will be lowered to engage the garment 164 and the work support surface 162 by the operator actuating a suitable button to continue the cycle which had been automatically stopped to permit the matchmode operation. Accordingly, the work clamp assembly 74 will completely descend and come to a position as shown in FIG. 12, wherein it will be in contact with the garment 164 and the work support surface 162. The pressure arm 100 exerting a slight pressure through the spring cartridge 166 will urge the outer holding plate 68 to engage the pocket piece 160 and exert a slight pressure thereon.

The folded edge of the pocket piece as shown in FIG. 13 will be sandwiched between the outer holding plate 168 and the folding blade 106, while the main folding plate 102 is withdrawn. The pressure arm will be slightly lowered as shown in FIG. 14 to transmit a slight pressure through the spring cartridge 166 to engage the inner holding plate 170 against the folded edge of the pocket piece 160 at a location inwardly of the folding blade 106. This permits the folding blades 106 and 108 to be removed to their retracted position as depicted in FIG. without disturbing the folded edge of the pocket piece 160. This establishes a folded edge 176 between the outer edge of the pocket piece 160 and the outer holding plate 168. The sewing margin will be formed upon the folded edge 176, preferably having the stitch line equally spaced from the outer edge of the pocket piece 160 all around the same. Simultaneously with applying the clamping pressure of the holding plate 168 which is equal to the pattern feeding pressure as shown in FIG. 16, or shortly thereafter, the clamp frame 98 will be lifted as shown in FIG. 17 from the work support surface 162 to place the work clamp assembly 74 in a ready to sew condition, wherein the pattern traced from the cam assembly 42 through the linkage assembly 51 will be duplicated at the stitch line as shown in FIG. 23', so as to permit the pocket piece 160 to be sewn along the sewing margin, previously defined, by the sewing machine assembly 36.

The sewing margin of the pocket piece 160 has been shown to be automatically obtained by the operation of the work clamp assembly 74, which through its pres sure arm 100 and outer holding plate 168, will mechanically clamp the pocket piece 160 upon the garment 164 to be moved under the sewing head 178 of the sewing machine assembly 36 as illustrated in FIG. 18. The work clamp assembly 74 is driven by the fixture 76 responsive to the linkage assembly 51 and cam assembly 42 to automatically trace the pattern with the sewing needle 180 in superposition to the sewing margin 176, whereby the pocket piece 160 may be sewn to the garment 164 during the sewing operation. The cam assembly 42 is driven in synchronization with the sewing machine assembly 36 by timing the engagement and disengagement of the clutch 38. The speed cam 50 of the cam assembly 42 controls the various speeds of operation of the sewing machine assembly 38. Upon the pocket piece 160 being placed in the ready to sew position illustrated in FIG. 17, the cam assembly 42 will be manually operated by the operator actuating a suitable start button. The sewing machine of assembly 36 is always locked in the position with the sewing needle 180 raised and the take-up arm (not shown) in the raised position. Actuation of the cam assembly 42 will cause the home position arm 182 shown in FIGS. 1 and 3 to engage switch 184 to arm a photocell (not shown) positioned adjacent the flag 186 carried on a sprocket wheel 188 affixed to the main jack shaft 34. The cam assembly 42 continues to rotate until the arm 190 which controls the beginning of sewing contacts switch 184 wherein the cam assembly 42 will stop and the main jack shaft 34 will rotate to permit the flag 186 to signal the photocell that the point 192 illustrated in FIG. 23 had reached the start to sew position which places said point in superposition to the sewing needle 180 shown in FIG. 18. Thereafter, the clutch will be engaged to actuate the sewing machine of the assembly 36 simultaneously with the operation of the cam assembly 42, and since the sewing machine assembly 36 and the cam assembly 42 are in synchronization, the pattern has been laid out in predetermined fashion so that a stitch will be positioned in each of the corners 194a, 194b, 1940, 195, 196a, 196b, and 1960 of the pocket piece 160 as shown diagrammatically in FIG.

23. In order to obtain a uniform quality of stitches along the sewing margin, a speed control cam 50 engages suitable switches 198, 202 and 206 illustrated in FIG. 1, to slow down the motor means and thus simultaneously reduce the operative speed of the cam assembly 42 and the sewing machine of the assembly 36 at the corners 192, 194a, 194b, 194e, 195, 1960, 196b, 1960, 200 and home position 201. At the point of end of sew, the arm 201 will engage the switch 206 as illustrated in FIG. 1 and actuate the needle positioner 92 which will automatically signal the actuation of the underbed trimmer 94 to effect trimming of the thread at the stop position 200 and the needle will be stopped in the raised position. The cam assembly 42 will continue to move the work clamp assembly 74 until it reaches the home position 201 corresponding to the position at the start of the cycle, wherein the sewn garment 164 may be removed from the work clamp assembly 74 and the next pocket piece and garment placed in position for the next cycle. It is noted that a single revolution of the cam assembly 42 will generate the patterns 126 and 128 as shown in FIG. 23. Likewise, a single revolution of the logic shaft 86 of the logic shaft assembly 84 will actuate the work clamp assembly 74 to the various operative steps depicted in FIGS. 9-17, to place the loaded pocket piece upon the garment 164 in folded position ready to be sewn thereto.

To facilitate loading of the garment 164 under the work clamp assembly 74, a suitable loader assembly 208 may be placed adjacent the sewing head 178 as illustrated in FIG. 18. Also, a suitable cover 210 as illustrated in FIG. 2, may be used to completely enclose the operative mechanism of the automatic machine 30, and thereby protect the operator and prevent tampering therewith. v

The holding plate assembly 104 is depicted in FIGS. 19, 20, 21 and 22, and includes the spring cartridge 166 and the outer holding plate 168 and the inner holding plate 170. The spring cartridge 166 has an outer housing 212, cylindrically shaped, with a threaded neck portion at the lower end thereof which is affixed to the tapped hole 214 of the pressure arm 100. The interior of the outer housing is hollow and has two counter bores which form a lower should 216 and an intermediate shoulder 218 therein. An outer sleeve plunger 220 extends through the lower hollow end of the outer housing 212 to contact the outer holding plate 168. With the outer holding plate 168 in its normally raised position as shown in FIG. 19, the outer sleeve plunger 220 will have the radial flange 222 raised off of and out of contact with the shoulder 216. A spring 224 is disposed between the outer sleeve plunger 220 and an inner plunger spring housing 226 held within the outer housing 212 by a snap ring 228 a-fixed within the outer housing 212 adjacent the top end thereof. An intermediate sleeve 230 normally seated upon the intermediate shoulder 218 by its radial flange 232. A spring 234 extends between the top of the radial flange 232 of intermediate sleeve 230 and a radial flange 236 of the inner plunger spring housing 226. A spring 238 is disposed within the inner plunger spring housing 226 between an upper snap ring 240 affixed inside the housing 226 adjacent its upper end and a snap ring 242 disposed to contact the bottom of the inner plunger spring housing 226 and affixed to a groove formed in the inner plunger 244. The inner plunger 244 extends downwardly through and slightly below the outer sleeve plunger 220.

The outer and inner holding plates 168 and 170 are held together by the biasing force of a spring 246 carried on a rivet 248 affixed to the inner holding plate 170 at the narrow diameter lower portion thereof with the body portion extending through a clearance aperture 250 formed in the outer holding plate 168 and an enlarged opening 252 formed in the pressure arm 100.

The body portion of the rivet 248 is free to move vertically within the aperture 250. The spring 246 is trapped between the top surface of the outer holding plate 168 and a snap ring 254 affixed adjacent the top of the rivet 248. A plurality of rivets 248 as illustrated in FIG. 1, are used to yieldably bias the inner holding plate 170 against the underside of the outer holding plate 168. A plurality of shoulder screws 256 fitted with washers 258 are threadedly connected at the lower end thereof in a tapped hole 262 formed in the outer holding plate 168. The body portion 260 of the shoulder screw 256 slidably contacts a shoulder bushing 264 affixed within aperture 266 of the pressure arm 100.

The diameter of the body portion 260 is smaller, by a few thousandths of an inch than the diameter of the shoulder bushing 264, so as to create a clearance between the shoulder screws 256 and the pressure arm 100 which produces a gimbal or floating connection therebetween. Thus, the holding plate assembly 104, including the outer and inner holding plates 168 and 170, is connected to the rigid pressure arm 100 by the shoulder screws 256 in a manner which permits self adjustment of the holding plate assembly 104 with variations in fabric thickness. Assuming the pressure arm 100 lies in a horizontal plane, then the holding plate assembly 104 will be able to come into contact with the pocket piece 160 and garment 164 to assume a position in a plane tilted a few degrees from the horizontal plane. The shoulder screw 256 also serves to stabilize and limit the vertical movement of the outer holding plate 168 within that of the design configuration.

A plurality of shoulder screws 256 as illustrated in FIG. 1 are fitted between the pressure arm 100 and the outer holding plate 168. The inner holding plate 170 has an enlarged aperture formed in alignment with the tapped hole 262, so that there is no contact or interference with the respective movement of either of the holding plates 168 or 170. The windows 172 are formed in the outer and inner holding plates 168 and 170 outwardly of the shoulder screws 256 adjacent the peripheral of each. The outer holding plate 168 has a downturned flange 270, the bottom of which has teeth to provide a mechanical interference contact with the pocket piece upon contacting the same to permit accu-v rate feeding. The flange 270 is sized to form a recess 272 on the underside of the outer holding plate 168 into which the inner holding plate 170 will nest. The inner holding plate 170 has a downturned flange 274 which terminates in a tapered point a short distance above the teeth of the flange 270.

The position of the pressure arm 100 responsive to the cam m and crank assembly 114 will control the spring cartridge 166 and the respective clamping action of the outer and inner holding plates 168 and 170. The position of the outer and inner holding plates 168 and 170 shown in FIG. 19 corresponds to that shown in FIGS. 10 and 11 wherein the holding plates 168 and 170 are out of contact with the pocket piece 160. The

downward motion of the pressure arm 100 causes the 5 outer holding plate 168 to lightly clamp upon the folded edge of the pocket piece 160 in superposition to the extended folding blades 106 as shown in FIGS. 12 and 13 which corresponds to the position depicted in FIG. 19. Upon the pressure arm 100 moving down slightly, the inner plunger 244 which was initially above and out of contact as shown in FIG. 19 with the inner holding plate 170 will now be lowered to engage the top surface of the inner holding plate 170 by means of the spring 238 forcing the inner plunger downwardly as is shown in FIG. 20.

The inner plunger 244 is actuated to lower the inner holding plate 170 as illustrated in FIG. 21 by the further descent of the pressure arm 100 so as to pinch the folded edge of the pocket piece 160 against the garment 164 and work surface 162, as shown in FIG. 14, prior to the folding blades 106 and 108 being withdrawn. This prevents the folded edge of the pocket piece 160 from being disturbed or the possibility of the sewing margin 176 being upset by the withdrawal of the folding blades 106 and 108 shown in FIG. 15.

Further lowering of the pressure arm 100 is depicted in FIG. 22 to bring the outer holding plate 168 into a clamping position against the folded edge of the pocket piece 160, and securely clamp the same against the garment 164 and the work surface 162 so as to permit the work clamp assembly 74 to shift the assembled pocket piece 160 and garment 164 during the sewing operation, wherein the pocket piece 160 will be sewn along the sewing margin 176 and thereby joined to the garment 164.

In the preferred embodiment diagrammatically represented in FIG. 23, each of the earns 46 and 48 of the conjugate earns 45 are identical in shape and may be made from a single cutting as shown in FIG. 24. A pair of spaced securing openings 278 and the key opening 280 for the keyed connection to the shaft 44 are each formed along the line of symmetry 122. A second pair of openings 282 are formed perpendicular to an equal distance away from the line of symmetry 122. The start position is indicated by the roller in phantom and with the center of the opening 280 as the apex and angle Z is formed equal to 41 .47 for the configuration shown. The pair of conjugate cams 45 will be cut simultaneously as indicated in FIG. 25. Assuming the top cam will be positioned on the top of the conjugate cams 45, it bears the reference character 46, and will be turned over with respect to the line of symmetry 122 while the bottom cam 48 will remain in the same position as is shown in FIG. 26. Reassembling the cams as illustrated in FIG. 27 and aligning the holes 278, 280 and 282, will place the line of symmetry 122 of each of the cams 46 and 48 in the same plane. The cams will be secured together by simple fastening means 284, with spacers 286 disposed therebetween as shown in FIG. 2, whereby the conjugate cams will be mounted upon the drive shaft 44 as illustrated in FIGS. 1, 2 and 23. Since the cams 46 and 48 of the conjugate cams 45 are the mirror image of each other with respect to the line of symmetry 122, any distance V of the cam 46 measured from the line of symmetry 122 will be the mirror image of an equal distance W, set off on cam 48 in an equal and opposite direction from the line of symmetry 122. The two levers S2 and 54 are of equal length and pivot around the common point 56. Links 58 and 60 are pivotally connected to the ends of the respective levers 52 and 54 and, in turn, terminate at the common shaft 62. The links 58 and 60 are also of equal length. Each of the levers 52 and 54 are biased to follow cams 48 and 46 respectively, which are rotated about the axis of the drive shaft 44. The pattern generated at point 62 which corresponds to the stud 62, will correspond to the compound shape of the cams 46 and 48. If as in the present instance the pattern desired is symmetrical with respect to a given line, as for example, the line of symmetry 122, such a pattern can be generated by two identical cams assembled together in mirror image form as illustrated in FIGv 27 about the line of symmetry 122. In this manner, the line of symmetry 122 of the conjugate cams 45 and that of the pattern 126, coincides at the start or and at mid-cycle or 180. Each of the respective levers 52 and 54 continuously engage one of the conjugate earns 45 through the cam followers 64 and 66 for a complete cycle. Therefore, lever 52 through follower 64 will engage cam 48 while lever 54 through follower 66 will engage cam 46. During the first half cycle, half of the pattern 126 is generated from point 62 which corresponds to the stud 62 to point 124 as illustrated in FIG. 23. Past mid-cycle, after crossing the midpoint 124, the cam function of the conjugate earns 45 is reversed and thus will produce the mirror image of the first half of the generated pattern. This is so because with reference to the line of symmetry 122, each first-half or 0 to 180 of the respective cams 46 and 48 is the mirror image of the other cams last-half or l80 to 360. See, for example, the cam pattern portions V of cam 46 which is the mirror image of the cam portion W of cam 48. Thus, the pattern produced after reaching the mid-cycle of 180 point at 124 of FIG. 23 will be the mirror image of the pattern produced during the first one-half of the cycle. In effect, cams 46 and 48 reverse roles at mid-cycle or 180 with respect to their respective contribution to the compound feed of the pattern generated at points 62 and by the work clamp assembly 74 under the sewing needle 180.

It will be understood that various changes in the details, materials, arrangements of parts and operating conditions which have been herein described and illustrated in order to explain the nature of the invention may be made by those skilled in the art within the principles and scope of the invention.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what is claimed herein is:

1. In a mechanism for automatically sewing a piece to a garment, the combination of:

a. a frame,

b. a fixture shiftably mounted on the frame,

0. means mounted on the frame and connected to the fixture to shift the fixture in a predetermined pattern,

d. a sewing machine mounted on the frame adjacent the fixture,

e. a work clamp carried by the fixture to prescribe the predetermined path at the sewing machine, whereby the piece will be sewn to the garment,

. the work clamp having a retractable folding plate upon which the piece is placed for subsequent folding of the edges thereof,

. a plurality of folding blades disposed about the folding plate adjacent the area to be sewn, and carried by the fixture to be moved between an expanded position and a retracted position, in the expanded position the folding blades are moved toward the folding plate to fold the edges of the piece about the folding plate, while in the retracted position, the folding blades move away from the folded edge of said piece in a timed sequence of operation,

a pair of holding plates shiftably mounted on the work clamp in superposition to the folding plate to hold the folded edge of the piece in folded condition upon the work surface to permit removal of the folding plate and the folding blades to assume the folded position and the retracted position,

. means connected to the folding plate and the folding blades to move the folding plate and the folding blades in a timed sequence of operation,

. control means for controlling the shifting movement of the holding plates in timed sequence to the movement of the folding plate and the folding blades,

. the pair of holding plates are interconnected and include an outer plate having a recessed interior into which the inner plate is disposed,

a pressure arm carries the pair of holding plates, and is shiftable responsive to the control means,

m. a biasing cartridge affixed to the pressure arm for movement therewith, and

a pair of plungers operatively connected within the biasing cartridge to be selectively positioned into engagement with the pair of holding plates to urge the same toward the work surface in response to the movement of the pressure arm.

. The combination claimed in claim 1 wherein: the pair of plungers includes an inner plunger to contact the inner holding plate and an outer plunger to contact the outer holding plate,

. a plurality of spring means in the biasing cartridge to inter-engage the pair of plungers whereby selective forces may be transmitted to said pair of plungers responsive to the movement of the pressure arm . The combination claimed in claim 2 wherein:

. The combination claimed in claim 3 wherein: a second spring normally out of engagement with the outer sleeve is brought to bear against said outer sleeve after the folding blades have been retracted so as to apply a second spring force against the outer plunger and outer door, which pressure is maintained during the sewing operation.

. The combination claimed in claim 1 wherein: the folding plate is sized to include the sewing margin,

b. the pair of holding plates are disposed in superposition to the folding plate,

c. the outer holding plate is sized smaller than the folding plate to create a sewing margin on the folded piece,

d. the outer holding plate has a downturned edge in superposition to the outer edge of the folding blade with the folding blade in folding position,

e. the inner holding plate is sized smaller than the outer holding plate with the edge thereof in spaced relation to the folding blade and in superposition to the folded edge of the piece, whereby after removal of the folding plate, the inner holding plate will engage the folded edge of the piece to permit removal of the folding blades prior to clamping of said piece to the work surface.

6. In a mechanism for symmetrically sewing a piece to a garment, the combination of:

a. a frame having a work surface thereon,

b. a pair of conjugate cams mounted on the frame to rotate about a prescribed axis,

0. a motor means connected to drive said conjugate cams,

d. a pair of lever means pivotally connected at one end thereof to the frame on one side of the conjugate cams to pivot about an axis parallel to the cam axis,

e. each of the lever means extending on opposite sides of the conjugate cams,

f. a cam follower connected to each of the lever means, with one cam follower engaging one of the conjugate cams and the other cam follower engaging the other of the conjugate cams,

g. a pair of links, each pivotally connected at one end thereof to one of the lever means, and at the other end thereof pivotally connected to each other at an axis parallel to the pivotal axis of the lever,

h. a sewing machine mounted on the frame to define a sewing station,

i. a fixture, carrying a work clamp, connected to the links at the pivotal connection thereof to be moved responsive thereto, whereby the work clamp prescribes a predetermined path at the sewing station of the sewing machine,

j. the axis of the conjugate cams and the axis of the pivotal connection of the lever means defining a hypothetical line of symmetry which will pass through the predetermined pattern prescribed at the pivotal connection of the inks to divide said pattern in symmetrical halves,

k. the conjugate cams being equal and opposite on either side of the line of summetry at such times as the pivotal connecting axis of the links lies upon said line of symmetry.

7. The combination claimed in claim 6 wherein:

a. each of the conjugate cams having an identical pattern periphery when placed in superposition to one another with the respective line of symmetry of each matched and in unassembled position,

b. one of the conjugate cams turned over with the respective lines of symmetry rematched to connect the same in assembled position for mounting upon the axis of rotation.

8. The combination claimed in claim 7 wherein:

a. the starting point is defined by a predetermined angle set off from the axis of rotation of the assembled conjugate cams.

. The combination claimed in claim 6 wherein:

. each of the lever means of equal length,

. each of the links of equal length,

. each of the cam followers engage the conjugate cams at an equal distance measured from the line of symmetry, whereby a symmetrical pattern will be prescribed by the pivotal connection of the links and duplicated by the work clamp carried by the fixture.

10. The combination claimed in claim 6 wherein:

a. an adjustable mounting bracket carrying a pin to which the links are pivotally connected, interconnecting said links and the fixture,

b. screw means detachably fixing the mounting bracket to the fixture, whereby the screws can be loosened to permit adjustment 0 the bracket and in tight position the screws lock said bracket in assembled position,

0. a forced adjustment means carried by the fixture in perpendicular relationship to the line of symmetry, whereby on loosening of the connecting screws said bracket may be positioned in the X or the Y direction,

d. a second adjustment means carried by the fixture to contact the bracket and move the same in a direction parallel to the line of symmetry, and

e. biasing means carried by the fixture to urge said bracket in the direction of the first and the second adjustment means.

1 1. the combination claimed in claim 10 wherein:

a. the connecting screws threadedly received in the mounting bracket,

b. an extension plate fixedly connected to the fixture at one end thereof and disposed in superposition to the mounting bracket at the other end thereof, the extension plate having enlarged holes therein disposed in superposition to the tapped holes in said mounting bracket through which the connecting screws pass,

c. a connecting plat disposed above said enlarged holes having openings therein in alignment with the tapped holes in the mounting bracket sized to rotatably receive the connecting screws, whereby tightening of the screws will clamp the extension plate between the mounting bracket and the connecting plate in assembled position and loosening of the screws will permit adjustment of the mounting bracket within the limits of the oversized holes in said extension plate.

12. The combination claimed in claim 10 wherein:

a. the extension plate is disposed substantially along the line of symmetry,

b. a plurality of bosses extend downwardly from the extension plate in spaced relation to the mounting bracket,

c. the first adjustment means carried in one of said bosses and the second adjustment means carried in another of said bosses.

13. The combination claimed in claim 12 wherein:

a. the first and the second adjustment means defining threaded screws, each of which is threadedly received in tapped holes in said bosses for adjustable movement therein when said connecting screws are in the loosened position,

b. the biasing means includes a spring loaded pin disposed in a hole in said mounting bracket to bear against a third boss to thereby bias said mounting 5 bracket in the direction of at least one of the bosses carrying said adjustment screws. 

1. In a mechanism for automatically sewing a piece to a garment, the combination of: a. a frame, b. a fixture shiftably mounted on the frame, c. means mounted on the frame and connected to the fixture to shift the fixture in a predetermined pattern, d. a sewing machine mounted on the frame adjacent the fixture, e. a work clamp carried by the fixture to prescribe the predetermined path at the sewing machine, whereby the piece will be sewn to the garment, f. the work clamp having a retractable folding plate upon which the piece is placed for subsequent folding of the edges thereof, g. a plurality of folding blades disposed about the folding plate adjacent the area to be sewn, and carried by the fixture to be moved between an expanded position and a retracted position, in the expanded position the folding blades are moved toward the folding plate to fold the edges of the piece about the folding plate, while in the retracted position, the folding blades move away from the folded edge of said piece in a timed sequence of operation, h. a pair of holding plates shiftably mounted on the work clamp in superposition to the folding plate to hold the folded edge of the piece in folded condition upon the work surface to permit removal of the folding plate and the folding blades to assume the folded position and the retracted position, i. means connected to the folding plate and the folding blades to move the folding plate and the folding blades in a timed sequence of operation, j. control means for controlling the shifting mOvement of the holding plates in timed sequence to the movement of the folding plate and the folding blades, k. the pair of holding plates are interconnected and include an outer plate having a recessed interior into which the inner plate is disposed, l. a pressure arm carries the pair of holding plates, and is shiftable responsive to the control means, m. a biasing cartridge affixed to the pressure arm for movement therewith, and n. a pair of plungers operatively connected within the biasing cartridge to be selectively positioned into engagement with the pair of holding plates to urge the same toward the work surface in response to the movement of the pressure arm.
 1. In a mechanism for automatically sewing a piece to a garment, the combination of: a. a frame, b. a fixture shiftably mounted on the frame, c. means mounted on the frame and connected to the fixture to shift the fixture in a predetermined pattern, d. a sewing machine mounted on the frame adjacent the fixture, e. a work clamp carried by the fixture to prescribe the predetermined path at the sewing machine, whereby the piece will be sewn to the garment, f. the work clamp having a retractable folding plate upon which the piece is placed for subsequent folding of the edges thereof, g. a plurality of folding blades disposed about the folding plate adjacent the area to be sewn, and carried by the fixture to be moved between an expanded position and a retracted position, in the expanded position the folding blades are moved toward the folding plate to fold the edges of the piece about the folding plate, while in the retracted position, the folding blades move away from the folded edge of said piece in a timed sequence of operation, h. a pair of holding plates shiftably mounted on the work clamp in superposition to the folding plate to hold the folded edge of the piece in folded condition upon the work surface to permit removal of the folding plate and the folding blades to assume the folded position and the retracted position, i. means connected to the folding plate and the folding blades to move the folding plate and the folding blades in a timed sequence of operation, j. control means for controlling the shifting mOvement of the holding plates in timed sequence to the movement of the folding plate and the folding blades, k. the pair of holding plates are interconnected and include an outer plate having a recessed interior into which the inner plate is disposed, l. a pressure arm carries the pair of holding plates, and is shiftable responsive to the control means, m. a biasing cartridge affixed to the pressure arm for movement therewith, and n. a pair of plungers operatively connected within the biasing cartridge to be selectively positioned into engagement with the pair of holding plates to urge the same toward the work surface in response to the movement of the pressure arm.
 2. The combination claimed in claim 1 wherein: a. the pair of plungers includes an inner plunger to contact the inner holding plate and an outer plunger to contact the outer holding plate, b. a plurality of spring means in the biasing cartridge to inter-engage the pair of plungers whereby selective forces may be transmitted to said pair of plungers responsive to the movement of the pressure arm.
 3. The combination claimed in claim 2 wherein: a. the outer plunger defines a sleeve through which the inner plunger is disposed, b. the outer plunger and the inner plunger operate alternately to urge the outer holding plate and the inner holding plate to clamp the piece in folded condition.
 4. The combination claimed in claim 3 wherein: a. a second spring normally out of engagement with the outer sleeve is brought to bear against said outer sleeve after the folding blades have been retracted so as to apply a second spring force against the outer plunger and outer door, which pressure is maintained during the sewing operation.
 5. The combination claimed in claim 1 wherein: a. the folding plate is sized to include the sewing margin, b. the pair of holding plates are disposed in superposition to the folding plate, c. the outer holding plate is sized smaller than the folding plate to create a sewing margin on the folded piece, d. the outer holding plate has a downturned edge in superposition to the outer edge of the folding blade with the folding blade in folding position, e. the inner holding plate is sized smaller than the outer holding plate with the edge thereof in spaced relation to the folding blade and in superposition to the folded edge of the piece, whereby after removal of the folding plate, the inner holding plate will engage the folded edge of the piece to permit removal of the folding blades prior to clamping of said piece to the work surface.
 6. In a mechanism for symmetrically sewing a piece to a garment, the combination of: a. a frame having a work surface thereon, b. a pair of conjugate cams mounted on the frame to rotate about a prescribed axis, c. a motor means connected to drive said conjugate cams, d. a pair of lever means pivotally connected at one end thereof to the frame on one side of the conjugate cams to pivot about an axis parallel to the cam axis, e. each of the lever means extending on opposite sides of the conjugate cams, f. a cam follower connected to each of the lever means, with one cam follower engaging one of the conjugate cams and the other cam follower engaging the other of the conjugate cams, g. a pair of links, each pivotally connected at one end thereof to one of the lever means, and at the other end thereof pivotally connected to each other at an axis parallel to the pivotal axis of the lever, h. a sewing machine mounted on the frame to define a sewing station, i. a fixture, carrying a work clamp, connected to the links at the pivotal connection thereof to be moved responsive thereto, whereby the work clamp prescribes a predetermined path at the sewing station of the sewing machine, j. the axis of the conjugate cams and the axis of the pivotal connection of the lever means defining a hypothetical line of symmetry which will pass through the predetermiNed pattern prescribed at the pivotal connection of the inks to divide said pattern in symmetrical halves, k. the conjugate cams being equal and opposite on either side of the line of summetry at such times as the pivotal connecting axis of the links lies upon said line of symmetry.
 7. The combination claimed in claim 6 wherein: a. each of the conjugate cams having an identical pattern periphery when placed in superposition to one another with the respective line of symmetry of each matched and in unassembled position, b. one of the conjugate cams turned over with the respective lines of symmetry rematched to connect the same in assembled position for mounting upon the axis of rotation.
 8. The combination claimed in claim 7 wherein: a. the starting point is defined by a predetermined angle set off from the axis of rotation of the assembled conjugate cams.
 9. The combination claimed in claim 6 wherein: a. each of the lever means of equal length, b. each of the links of equal length, c. each of the cam followers engage the conjugate cams at an equal distance measured from the line of symmetry, whereby a symmetrical pattern will be prescribed by the pivotal connection of the links and duplicated by the work clamp carried by the fixture.
 10. The combination claimed in claim 6 wherein: a. an adjustable mounting bracket carrying a pin to which the links are pivotally connected, interconnecting said links and the fixture, b. screw means detachably fixing the mounting bracket to the fixture, whereby the screws can be loosened to permit adjustment o the bracket and in tight position the screws lock said bracket in assembled position, c. a forced adjustment means carried by the fixture in perpendicular relationship to the line of symmetry, whereby on loosening of the connecting screws said bracket may be positioned in the X or the Y direction, d. a second adjustment means carried by the fixture to contact the bracket and move the same in a direction parallel to the line of symmetry, and e. biasing means carried by the fixture to urge said bracket in the direction of the first and the second adjustment means.
 11. the combination claimed in claim 10 wherein: a. the connecting screws threadedly received in the mounting bracket, b. an extension plate fixedly connected to the fixture at one end thereof and disposed in superposition to the mounting bracket at the other end thereof, the extension plate having enlarged holes therein disposed in superposition to the tapped holes in said mounting bracket through which the connecting screws pass, c. a connecting plat disposed above said enlarged holes having openings therein in alignment with the tapped holes in the mounting bracket sized to rotatably receive the connecting screws, whereby tightening of the screws will clamp the extension plate between the mounting bracket and the connecting plate in assembled position and loosening of the screws will permit adjustment of the mounting bracket within the limits of the oversized holes in said extension plate.
 12. The combination claimed in claim 10 wherein: a. the extension plate is disposed substantially along the line of symmetry, b. a plurality of bosses extend downwardly from the extension plate in spaced relation to the mounting bracket, c. the first adjustment means carried in one of said bosses and the second adjustment means carried in another of said bosses. 